How does this look for a prepare? Anything at all you would probably change/incorporate/reorder? Would you agree with taping the seams in the two levels of plywood?
The bottom line is, so long as your roof sheathing is comparatively dry once the roof is shut in, you should be wonderful, even devoid of outward drying. I'd personally go ahead an put in the peel-and-stick membrane within the valleys and on the eaves devoid of worrying.
for an unvented design without having insulation earlier mentioned the sheathing, what about utilizing wood fibreboard in between the rafters instantly down below and in contact with the sheathing? All gaps between the boards along with the rafters full of growing foam / sealant. You could possibly then include the rafters with rigid foam to provide your insulation nearly needed R stage and lessen the chance towards the rafters and sheathing, then install your airtight drywall underneath this.
Also, why not zip panels taped and after that roxul batts with drywall about that. Roxul is awesome things I happen to be tests for years in insane strategies attempting to see its abilities. I believe zip panels, taped properly, with roxul batts will past given that the roof!
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If you want to create a ventilated insulated sloped roof assembly, go with a kind of ventilation baffle that could be mounted within an airtight method. Web site-designed baffles are finest.
Preferably, you would like to have an airtight barrier higher than and below your fiberglass batts. If you can attain Those people two air boundaries, then wind-washing isn't really a problem inside a roof like yours. (It might be in the vented unconditioned attic, naturally, Primarily near the soffits.)
A. There's a code prerequisite to get a vapor retarder in some types of assemblies, but there is no necessity for a vapor barrier. Your layer of rigid foam is previously a vapor retarder. No even more vapor retarding layer ought to be installed.
Yesterday we blew the insulation and put in the SIGA Majcoat to the CAPACES Leadership Institute. There was more than 8,000 Cubic toes of insulation to put in, so our insulators had two in their blower vans and an excellent crew on web page. They were being blowing cellulose as rapidly as they might and also the the rain was heading our route. Under 45 minutes after the insulation was finished we experienced finished the Majcoat and were occupied taping seams.
Therefore the dilemma is: seal the stucco vents and insert the spray foam roof and Don't fret about condensation? There exists little low-hanging fruit within our kind of development, In particular on existing houses, Which is the reason folks are currently being sucked into your spray foam roof scam.
During the summer, roof ventilation does not drastically reduced the temperature of asphalt shingles or other types of roofing.
I am unsure how to proceed with regard to the electrical for the prevailing supporter, and to the not-however-installed but A great deal wished-for track lighting. Within the previous roof, the lover's electrical source ran along with the T&G ceiling, and was lined by what looked like electrical tape, then by a 1/2" layer of sound insulation board, after which by the felt and shingles.
My feeling is if we have been concerned about air leakage compromising the insulation's performance, vent channels are problematic.
I have constructed log residences during the Yukon Territory in northern Canada for 30 a long time. Most log properties have cathedral ceilings. Almost all of the roofs We've got developed are as follows (from the bottom up): log purloins, nominal 2" (2x6) t&g decking, 6mil poly, one 1/two" extruded polystyrene foam, 2x10 rafters on 24" centers, 7" fiberglass, 2x4 strapping, seven/16 OSB, underlayment (15 lb paper, 30lb felt, or now we'd even use ice and h2o defend). There could be about an inch of air Place under the strapping for equally vertical and horizontal air stream. All roofs are vented with strip view publisher site vents on the eaves and vents during the soffit (2x6 t&g) at the peak at both ends. I'd disagree that venting isn't desired in the event you prevent the airflow on The nice and cozy facet, for 2 explanations. Initially it's very difficult to stop all airflow, In particular with regular conventional methods (ie chimney and plumbing vent penetrations through the roof) We've got a number of approaches created through the years to seal the vb for the eaves and gables, but there remain nail penetrations from the useful reference vb. General I do think we experienced really tight seals but just one could in no way say airtight.